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LCD Shield v1.0 Assembly Instructions:

Tools you will need:

  • Soldering iron with a fine tip, 35 Watts or less for electronics work
  • 60/40 rosin core solder (Do not use acid core solder on this kit!)
  • Diagonal cutters
  • Optional: Desoldering wick or desoldering pump, multimeter, desk clamp for holding work pieces steady

Parts List:

Go through the parts list and identify the components to make sure all the parts are there.

Quantity: Designators: Component:
1C11 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor
2SW1, RESET Pushbutton switches
1SP1 Miniature Speaker
1JP1 3 pin jumper
2  6 pin shield extender headers
5  8 pin shield extender headers
1  Jumper
1  LCD Shield PCB


A few notes on soldering:

  • Heat the joint, not the solder directly. When heated properly by the iron, the solder should melt and flow into the joint once it is applied.

  • Always use enough heat when soldering, but do not overheat. The joints on this board should not need heating for more than 5 seconds each. If it takes longer, then your iron is not putting out enough heat, or the iron tip is contaminated. Wipe the tip on a wet sponge and try again.

  • A good solder joint is shiny. A dull, grainy-looking joint is indicative of a cold joint. Cold solder joints make poor mechanical and electrical connections. They can be fixed by reheating the joint, removing the old solder and resoldering the connection with new solder.

  • Keep the soldering iron tip clean. Wipe the iron tip on a moist (not soaking wet) sponge frequently to remove old flux, dross (oxidized solder), and other contaminants that can ruin your connection.

Ok - let's begin! Locate C11 on the PCB. Insert the 0.1 uF capacitor into the two holes for C11. Cerarmic capacitors are not polarized, so they can be inserted either way.

Bend the leads of C11 on the other side of the PCB so that it doesn't fall out when you turn the board over.

Turn the PCB over, and solder the capacitor.

Trim off the leads of the capacitor.

Install the pushbuttons for SW1 and RESET. Orientation does not matter for these switches.

Caution! The leads are already bent by the manufacturer such that they will stay in the PCB once inserted. However, it does require some force to insert, so please do not put your fingers underneath the PCB while you push the switch in!

Decide if you want your LCD center mounted over the prototyping area, or if you want the LCD mounted off the bottom edge of the board.

Most compatible LCD's have the 16 pin header along the top of the screen. .

If you want to mount it at the bottom edge of the shield, then install the 8 pin shield extender headers into locations LC1 and LC2.

If you want your LCD center mounted, use locations LC3 and LC4 instead. Trim the leads after soldering since these won't need to plug into anything else.

Install the 3 pin header, JP1. This is used to either connect the LCD's RW pin to an Arduino pin, or to ground. Connecting to ground saves an Arduino pin.

Install SP1, the speaker. The positive end of the speaker should point towards the shield's left side.

Install the 8 pin accesories header. Trim the leads after soldering.

Install the two 6-pin shield extender headers. Do not trim these leads, as these need to plug into the Arduino.

Install the two 8-pin shield extender headers. Do not trim these leads, as these need to plug into the Arduino.

Plug the jumper into the lower two pins of JP1, as shown. This connects the RW pin of the LCD to ground. We will use this configuration we will use for initial testing.

If the jumper is installed across the pins labelled LCRW, then the RW pin will be connected to Arduino Digital Pin 6.

Double check each connection to make sure there are no cold solder joints. Once everything looks good, you are ready to start testing!

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